While “brasserie” brings forth images of bustling tables laden with onglet, moules, gratin and the like, and “trattoria” evokes bottles of chianti and fresh taglietelle served family-style, the "gastropub" gets off clean, relatively free from these long-standing connotations regarding décor, menu and service. This is largely due to its lack of history. It was a mere 15 years ago that The Eagle introduced the concept to London diners with a straightforward, creative, seasonal menu and true pub setting. It was certainly not the first pub to serve good food, but was the first to advertise as a “gastropub.”
In 1995 came The Fat Duck in Bray, England, now famous for Chef Heston Blumenthal’s experiments with molecular gastronomy and retro English fare (not to mention its three Michelin stars). The Eagle hit the nail on the head, and started an enduring trend; today there are almost 100 gastropubs listed in Time Out London, as notable for their cheeky names as their creative menus of English and French cuisine.
The first Michelin starred stateside gastropub, The Spotted Pig in New York’s West Village, opened in 2004 to rave reviews for both its food and its ambience. The cozy, inviting atmosphere of dark wood and eclectic décor is paired with a small but well-crafted and accessible menu, making for a neighborhood spot that thrills locals and draws pilgrims from as far as the Upper West Side.
In 2006 Chef Ford opened Ford's Filling Station in LA, aiming for a similar combination of a comfortable pub-like attitude that serves exciting, seasonal food. Chef/proprietor Ben Ford trained at the California Culinary Academy then worked at Chez Panisse under Alice Waters (my personal hero) as well as Campanile, Opus, and The Farm Beverly Hills.
I first became aware of Ben Ford through the Food Network. I happened to watch a Food Challenge competition on sandwiches and the creations he turned out were truly inspired: Lobster BLT, Tuna Nicoise Sandwich, and Roasted Lamb Sandwich. When I found out he had a restaurant in Los Angeles, I immediately went to check it out.
Visit #1: Polenta Cake - pearl onions, mixed mushrooms, blistered tomatoes, and truffle mascarpone cheese
Visit #2: White Shrimp Flatbread - rosemary flatbread, white bean hummus, meyer lemon, and arugula; 3-cheese plate
Visit #3: Goose Rillette - micro rocket greens and whole grain mustard; Butterscotch Pudding with mascarpone cheese
Visit #4: Pork Rillette - micro greens and whole grain mustard
Tonight once again I was reminded as well how Hendricks Gin is meant to be served: Cucumber Martini anyone? Cheers!
If the winds of change blow, is it safe to fly a kite?
Oh absolutely. In fact, it would appear that they fly all the time, regardless of the wind conditions. At least I think so - my boss is telling me to fly one all the time.
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